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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.